No, Really, I Am an American

Katrina and another co-worker of ours Jessica invited me to go to Kyoto with them today because it was supposed to snow. I wasn’t overly sold on the trip, but I told them to let me know what time they were leaving and stuff.

When I woke up this morning, all happy and snug in my futon, I had half a mind to send them a text bailing on the trip. But I somehow dragged myself out of the happy warmth ‘cuz I figured for one thing, it would be something productive to do, and I’m not gonna be in the country that much longer and probably wouldn’t get another chance like this.

We were scheduled to meet at Big Man (the giant TV by the Hankyu Station that serves as a meeting point for a lot of people) at 9:30 this morning. I was already awake at 8:00 ‘cuz I’ve been going to sleep by like 1 AM recently (and I had to take the recycling out). I figured if I left the house by 8:30, I’d get there in plenty of time.

Boy did I miscalculate that departure. I got to Big Man at 9:10. Remember how when I first got here I griped about how nothing was open before 10 AM? Yeah. Lucky for me they actually had CNN running on Big Man (they usually only have Japanese language stuff). I was able to get a little info on the Presidential race back home.

Katrina and Jessica arrived at the appropriate time, and we even had a few minutes to spare to grab a coffee before heading up to the Hankyu Line. I don’t usually take the Hankyu and had never taken it into Kyoto City before. My past experiences with it (Arashiyama) have always been crowded. I was not really looking forward to standing for the entirety of the trip.

Imagine my surprise when there was barely any people lining up for the Limited Express! We even got seats together! I know this may not seem like an amazing thing to y’all, but seriously, all the other times I’ve taken this train line to the Kyoto area standing has been involved.

It was a bright and sunny day as we began our misadventure. The destinations in Kyoto had not been determined; both Katrina and Jessica had had their hearts set on seeing Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion) covered in snow, but since it seemed so sunny they were both all right with passing up that stop. I mentioned that I’d never been to Ginkaku-ji (the Silver Pavilion) and that I also haven’t taken the Philosopher’s Path. Katrina said since I was leaving next month that the choice should be mine.

As we neared Kyoto, however, we noticed bits of snow on the ground as well as flurries. It wasn’t anything like what we had last Saturday (or what we get in Chicago), but it had stuck. I noticed that the snow was sticking to the roofs of the houses and buildings we passed and suggested we try for the Golden Pavilion anyway.

We got off the train at Karasuma. Katrina’s been to the city loads of times and had her bus map with her. This was one of the first times I’d been to Kyoto and not gone into JR Kyoto Station so I was glad to be going with people who knew their way around (Jessica also frequents the Hankyu Line and Kyoto).

As we stepped out into the city, the flurries had turned into fatter flakes. They still weren’t sticking to the ground, but they were quite a sight to see for two people from non-snowy areas. But in sooth, I was just as delighted. It sure beat rain. (I refer you to my first trip to Kyoto.)

We crossed the street to the bus stop and just missed the number we wanted. I checked the next time for the bus and we had about fifteen minutes to kill. Katrina suggested walking up the road a little to pass the time and try and catch it from the other stop. “If we miss it, I get to kill you.”

The next stop wasn’t as far as I’d thought and we made it with plenty of time to spare. It was a good thing we moved, too ‘cuz we were able to get seats; and then when we pulled up to the stop we’d originally waited by there were loads of people boarding the bus.

It was about a half hour to Kinkaku-ji from where we were. It was a pleasant bus ride. Now, one of the other things I rather dislike about Kyoto is actually the bus. They have this weird change thing they do — there’s a machine that gives you change instead of the main machine. I find it really annoying. AND they raised the price from 200 yen to 220 yen — or so it seemed (none of us could really remember how much it was before…but we all seem to think it was 200 yen). Lucky for me, I had exact change and didn’t have to deal with the silly change machine.

It had been snowing pretty steadily during the duration of the bus trip and it was still doing so when we arrived. I have to say, I’ve missed snow covered trees. Katrina and Jessica’s delight escalated to full out excitement (well, Katrina’s really did as she was squealing joyfully quite a bit).

We started taking pictures and I was very glad to have remembered to take me Da’s camera with me.

I hadn’t been to Kinkaku-ji since my parents first visited during my first year here. My memories of the place involved humidity and rain. Now my memories of it will include the Golden Pavilion covered in snow as it was snowing.

A much better memory.

It was pretty crowded there and so I didn’t take heaps of pictures. The sun came out while we were walking around, melting the snow off the trees and causing quite a few clumps to tumble onto the unsuspecting passer-by. It was kind of cool.

We didn’t spend a lot of time there and were soon on our way to the next destination: Ginkaku-ji.

We were having some really good luck with buses ‘cuz as we got onto the main street, we saw the bus we wanted pulling up. We had to sprint a little to catch it, but when we did, we found that once again we were all able to snag seats. I know this seems like a silly thing to be happy about, but much like the train journey, the bus journey is much more enjoyable if sitting down is involved.

Again with the pleasant bus ride. The sun was pretty bright during the journey, but about halfway there, the clouds had returned. I’d checked the forecast last night and it said something about rain. I was pretty relieved when it was revealed to be more snow. We were having incredible luck with the weather.

So I’d heard people say that Ginkaku-ji is better than Kinkaku-ji…and I have to admit, after seeing both, I’d hafta agree with this sentiment. The Golden Pavilion is pretty and everything, but the Silver Pavilion is more picture-esque. (I’m biased though. Ginkaku-ji wasn’t nearly as crowded as Kinkaku-ji. That might be a factor into my preference) It was amazing to see covered in snow and with all the trees. There were Zen gardens around too, and the snow had half-covered most of the lines in the sand. I was sure to take pictures of these. Little did I know I should have saved those pictures.

I put in new batteries at the Golden Pavilion, but by the time I got to the Silver Pavilion, the batteries had all but died. I sighed. That’s what I get for buying them from the Hyakuen Store ($1 Store). But I was pretty pissed at myself as I kept walking the grounds of the Silver Pavilion. There was this one shot that I desperately wanted of the pavilion covered in snow through snow covered trees and wouldn’t you know it? The camera totally disagreed with me as I tried to take the picture. I kid you not when I say I tried for like twenty minutes. Katrina and Jessica had gone ahead of me that’s how long I took. Finally, I resigned myself to not getting the picture and continued on the path up the side of the hill.

After I’d walked for a bit, I ran into Katrina. We were by this kind of rock alcove in the side the hill. I thought I would test the camera again and wouldn’t you bloody know it? The gorram thing worked! “I’m gonna go back and try and get another shot of the pavilion. If all else fails, I’ll meet you guys at the end of the path.”

I hurried back down the muddy stone steps and across the little bridge to the spot I’d stood at for twenty minutes. I turned on the camera…

And it bloody well died on me again!

I was so pissed!!

Finally, I resorted to taking the picture with Toshi — I really didn’t want to pass up the shot!!

Somewhat satisfied, I departed from the spot and found Katrina and Jess. Up on the trail, there was yet another bloody good shot of the pavilion from the top. I thought I’d try the camera again. Yeah. Nothin’. Needless to say, I was mildly disgruntled.

But it wasn’t a total loss. I have a great memory of the Silver Pavilion covered in snow as it was snowing.

Strangely enough, the sun came out again when we left. Katrina remarked that nature was definitely with us. The other Jess and I had to agree. We all caught lunch after that since we were all pretty damn hungry by this point…and we had a long walk ahead of us.

It was going to be about an hour walk back to where we wanted to go. In the meantime, we walked the Philosopher’s Path along the water. I hate to say it, but I wasn’t overly enlightened after walking the Path. I think the houses and paved streets had something to do with it, and the construction sign blocking the last part of the Path. Katrina and Jess both assured me that it’s actually quite pretty in Spring and Autumn with the cherry blossoms and changing leaves, though. Not that I’ll be here to see it…

The Path took us down a route that would pass a few more shrines and temples. We stopped at one with a viaduct and I took a few more pictures via Toshi. I admit, though, that I was starting to get a little tired with all the walking. At one point, Katrina suggested walking through another shrine area on our way to the main street and Jess and I just busted up laughing. For the whole of the walk, it seemed like she was saying it was only a little further, and well, it’s on the way so let’s stop a bit at this shrine/temple. We ended up following her advice again, and it was a nice little jaunt through a traditional area versus the main street we would have followed otherwise.

I’d wanted to go to Random Walk in Kyoto since the one in Osaka closed down last month. I’ve been in search of a new book, and Katrina knew where this location was. I was amused at the fact that I was in the same general area I’d been with Laura last October when we were trying to find it. (It turned out we had taken a wrong turn and that’s why we couldn’t find it!)

Unfortunately for me, I couldn’t justify buying anything.

There was a Mister Donut in the same shotengai so we decided to take a coffee and get off our feet for a spell. Cool thing about Mister Donut — it’s one of the few places in Japan that gives free refills on coffee. As we sat there drinking coffee and having donuts, I confessed to them that this trip was by far was the best experience I’ve had in Kyoto. I was really glad I got up this morning and ended up going with them.

We caught the train by Kawaramachi Station and again we got seats.

Seriously. Great trip.